In the UK it is more common to stitch tapestries onto a support of linen fabric than to display them on fabric-covered boards. A wide variety of stitching methods is used to conserve tapestries around the world, though in the UK it is common to use a technique known as brick couching. This provides intensive stitching, in yarns colour-matched to the tapestry weft, to secure damaged areas to a support fabric. This achieves structural support and the reintegration of the tapestry image simultaneously.

Colour-matched brick couching stitching used to support a tapestry onto a linen support fabric. © Textile Conservation Foundation
We used DIC monitoring as a means of investigating the effect of different stitching techniques including brick couching and laid couching (used more frequently in mainland Europe), and both full support fabric and support patches. It was proposed that a successful stitched support would allow the tapestry to expand and contract with fluctuations in relative humidity, but would prevent weak and damaged areas from opening up under the tapestry’s weight. Samples of wool rep fabric were used to replicate tapestry for the main trials to ensure comparability. These were artificially damaged to simulate an area of weft loss in a tapestry and rows of brick couching and/or laid couching were worked across the bare warps. In some cases a grid of running stitch support lines was added. The samples were suspended from the upper edge for one week and monitored with 2D DIC. The resulting strain graphs and strain maps gave information on the deformation and the strain (percentage deformation) experienced globally, by the sample overall, and locally, across the area of damage.

A strain map showing the strain recorded by damaged model fabric samples with (left) no conservation stitching and (centre and right) different stitch support patterns. © University of Glasgow
While we could only trial a small number of samples and the tests do not have statistical validity, the conclusions were of interest. The main conclusions were that all forms of stitching greatly reduced the strain across damaged areas, in comparison with the damaged, untreated samples which were used as controls – that is, there was less extension in the damaged areas after they had been supported. As would be expected, the greater the density of stitching, the more the strain across the damaged areas was reduced. However, it was observed that the most dense stitching (lines of stitching at 4mm spacing) reduced the strain across the damaged areas to a lower level than the overall global strain across the whole sample and could be described as ‘too much stitching’. When comparing patched and full supports, it was concluded that a patch gives good support if the ‘tapestry’ is damaged in a discrete area but is basically sound in the surrounding area. If the tapestry is damaged overall, a full support provides better support for weak areas. Strain was noticeably lower in a damaged region if it was encompassed within an overall support structure, even if it was not itself stitched to the support fabric.
A final stage of the testing was carried out on a tapestry fragment and the same behaviour was observed here. The fragment was treated by stitching in two stages: firstly by applying three patches of linen fabric to the back, securing damaged areas with brick couching , and secondly by giving this area an overall support of linen using a grid of running stitch support lines.

Linen patch supports with differently spaced stitching on small tapestry. © University of Glasgow
The first stage of treatment showed that extension (or strain) was effectively reduced in the damaged areas that were supported. However further areas of damage between the patches were not supported and showed high strain values. When the additional full support was applied, strain was much lower in the damaged areas that were encompassed by the support fabric; even when they were not stitched to the support fabric directly, the linen gave noticeable support and prevented extension.
Overall we found that, as hoped, DIC was a useful method for assessing the impact of different stitching techniques on the tapestry structure.
Read more
Lennard, F., Costantini, R. and Harrison, P. (2022) Investigating stitched support techniques for tapestry using digital image correlation. Studies in Conservation. (doi: 10.1080/00393630.2022.2083414)
Lennard, F., Costantini, R. and Harrison, P. (2021) Investigating tapestry conservation and display with digital image correlation. In: Spring Forum of the ICON Textile Group, 15-20 Apr 2021, pp. 122-132.