Avenue

My Secret City: Budapest

The Hungarian capital is home to stunning architecture, exciting nightlife and therapeutic bathhouses. Alumna Eszter Gyurkó shares her favourite places in one of the world’s most picturesque cities.

No matter how hard I try, I cannot choose just one favourite area of Budapest, as the entire inner city is simply gorgeous. The vibrant streets, the stunning architecture, the ambience and atmosphere that is rich with history and culture – it’s all there. I have two pieces of advice though: firstly, make sure to explore the city on foot; and secondly, don’t forget to look up! The beauty of Budapest is not just at street level; you will find some of the most intricate and breathtaking details on the facades of the buildings. If you are into architecture, this city will show you everything: Baroque, Art Nouveau, Neoclassical, Eclectic, Bauhaus and Socialist Classicism – basically as if you could walk through the pages of history.

Budapest equals thermal baths, everyone knows that – and no one should leave the city without trying at least one. Although Széchenyi Baths are the most popular choice among tourists, my personal vote goes to Gellért, which is less crowded but equally, if not even more beautiful. The breathtaking building has been completed in Art Nouveau style, and the temperature of the healing waters reaches 35 to 40 °C. A must-do when visiting Budapest!

"Budapest is one city that you must see at least once in your lifetime for everything it offers: the history, the culture, the food; and its glimmering beauty, that you will never, ever forget."

If you visit Budapest in spring, you are in for a magical experience. The whole city is in bloom, but the most beautiful area must be the Tóth Árpád promenade, located on the south-western side of the Buda Castle district, directly next to the castle wall. Not only do you get to enjoy a panoramic view over the city, but the walkway is also lined with huge ornamental cherry trees, which are covered in white and pink blossoms in late March and early April. Whether you are a nature lover or just looking for a peaceful escape, Tóth Árpád promenade during springtime is the perfect spot for you.

Budapest is famous for its nightlife. Most guides recommend the ruin bars (bars in abandoned buildings), prosecco boat tours on the Danube or the ‘party district’, but as a local, my favourite summer parties start in the Buda Castle at Savoyai Terasz. Both local and international DJs frequent this unique venue that offers the best view of Budapest with a look over the parliament and the Széchenyi Chain Bridge. And once those sets are over, you can hike down the hill and over the chain bridge to Pontoon, another summer favourite of locals right on the bank of the Danube. When it comes to music, my friend group agrees that A38 is our favourite venue. A38 is a decommissioned stone-carrier ship now anchored permanently to the bottom of Petőfi bridge, providing a unique environment for parties and concerts.

When I want to get some peace and quiet in the city, my favourite place is Normafa. Located in the Buda Hills, Normafa is an escape into nature without having to actually leave the city. You can reach the area by car or if you don’t mind some exercise, you can even hike up. But my go-to journey is to take the charming Fogaskerekű cogwheel railway, and then the Libegő chairlift on the way back. Such a special and beautiful experience!

Although it’s a very emotional and haunting experience, my favourite place to learn something about Budapest is the House of Terror, which is both a memorial and a museum for those who were held captive, interrogated, tortured or killed within the walls of Andrássy út 60. The exhibition pays tribute to the victims of the fascist Arrow Cross Party and the Communist Secret Police (ÁVH) and helps visitors understand one of the darkest parts of Hungary’s history. You will come out as a different person in the end.

My food & drink hit list

A must-try food
You can’t leave Budapest without trying one of the most widely known comfort foods of Hungarian cuisine: the mighty lángos. Lángos is a deep-fried dough that can be enjoyed in various ways. My all-time favourite (and probably that of most Hungarians) is the classic version, which is topped with garlic, sour cream and grated cheese. You can find lángos at markets, fairs and even dedicated lángos stands – one of the most popular spots being in the Central Market Hall.

A special meal
There is no better way to celebrate a special occasion than with steak and wine – and for that, one of the best places to go is Prime Steak & Wine right next to St Stephen’s Basilica. Although on the pricier side – as one would expect from such an elegant and internationally recognised restaurant – the experience is worth it. I recommend trying a Hungarian Grey steak paired with one of the exceptional wines from the restaurant’s spectacular menu that lists the products of the best Hungarian wineries.

"Make sure to visit Kazinczy Street, a buzzing area with one of Budapest's most beloved ruin bars, Szimpla Kert."

The place for cocktails
If you prefer an elegant night-out experience, don’t miss out on one of the many fantastic cocktail bars in the city. One of my absolute favourites is Black Swan, a small bar with a moody and secretive atmosphere and extremely talented mixology experts. The menu reflects Hungary’s culture and gastronomic heritage, and your drinks will look more like art pieces than just beverages. Make sure to book a table in advance, and once you arrive, ring the bell to enter – an exciting feature that further elevates the exclusive feeling of the place.

Craving some street food?
You will find many street food options in Budapest, but if I can recommend one place to try, it will be Bors Gasztrobar on Kazinczy Street. The staff are friendly and energetic while preparing their signature baguettes or your wish from the daily soup menu. This sometimes includes funny or surprising options, but believe me, they are all amazing! If you are after some Hungarian flavours, ask for the 'Töki Pompás' baguette – their wordplay and take on ‘töki pompos’ (a pizza-like snack), and if available, make sure to try one of the 'Túró Rudi' soups – a take on Túró Rudi which is a chocolate-coated curd snack – you will not regret it!

Satisfy your sweet tooth
I bet you didn't know just how much desserts are a part of Hungarian cuisine! If you have a sweet tooth, you will find something – or many things – to enjoy in the iconic Gerbeaud Café. Gerbeaud Café is a historic and prestigious confectionery established in 1858, and it is known for its classic Hungarian desserts and opulent interior. It’s tough to choose just one thing to try, and while Dobos cake (vanilla sponge with chocolate butter cream and caramel) is a must, you can’t go wrong either with a Gerbeaud slice (a layered cake with an apricot filling), Rákóczi túrós (meringue and apricot jam-topped cake), Somlói galuska (sponge, rum and raisins, chocolate sauce and cream), Krémes (puff pastry and cream) or Eszterházy cake (iced sponge with buttercream and walnuts).

This article was first published October 2024. All opinions expressed are the views of the author and are not endorsed by the University of Glasgow.